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 Post subject: Casting Plastic Pieces Help (recent)
PostPosted: Sat Nov 20, 2021 11:59 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2007 10:19 am
Location: Florida
I have been on hiatus for a LONG time. I used to cast GI Joe heads for customs but it has been over a decade.

I would like to cast some accessories for my young kids' toys. They have some vintage Bravestarr's, He-Man, etc. They constantly loose the swords and weapons. I also have high dollar pieces I could cast that I can't risk them losing.

Could you point me toward some good molding, plastic, etc. and/or tutorial that might help me.

[The last time I did this there was a tutorial showing building a two-piece mold using legos as a containment method if that helps - I obviously don't have this working link anymore]

Thanks all!

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 Post subject: Re: Casting Plastic Pieces Help (recent)
PostPosted: Sat Nov 20, 2021 2:03 pm 

Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 9:59 pm
Location: Chicago, IL
If you want good to perfect casts, you’ll need to invest a little into the proper equipment and materials. While it’s possible to get decent casts without one, a pressure pot and compressor are vital to getting the best results. You’ll need to use pressure for both making your molds and the casts.

I recommend using Smooth-on products. They have a large variety of resins and silicones. For making the molds, I’d suggest trying Mold Max 15T. It’s a translucent silicon so you can see the parts in the mold which helps when removing the original part after the mold cures. It also has enough flexibility to remove the original part or casts. It’s a 24 hr cure time but it’s durable and you can get up to 50 runs if you’re careful.

For hard resin casts, try smooth cast 327 (or 325, 326). You can either cast as is, in an almost clear, or add so strong tints for translucent or solid color pieces. It’s a 4 hr cure time and has enough working time to fill your molds and get it into the pressure pot. 325 and 326 have quicker cure times but also significantly less time to fill molds. Rushing is one thing you don’t want to have to deal with when molding or casting.

For flexible resin casts (webgear), try Task 14. It only comes in black but it’s strong and flexible for high durability. It’s a bit thicker than the 327 and you’ll need a gram scale for mixing. You also need to work fast but it’s the most reliable flexible resin I’ve used. If you need to have a flexible cast in a particular color, Specialty Resin sells Flexit 90 that can be used with tints but know that you have to work really fast because of the short pot life/working time.

For making envelope molds, I always used plastic containers. Most office supply and craft stores sell ones that work perfectly for any sized parts. Making mold boxes out of foam board or lego takes too much time and involve extra costs instead of a container that’s ready to go and can be used over and over. I used clay strips and toothpicks/gorilla glue to place the parts in the container.


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 Post subject: Re: Casting Plastic Pieces Help (recent)
PostPosted: Sat Nov 20, 2021 2:05 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2007 10:19 am
Location: indy
Well here are a few videos and channels for you.
Smooth On, a decent tutorial channel based around the Smooth On brand of casting supplies.
A two part collaboration between Robert Tolone & TheCrafsMan on casting Stikfas figures that might be useful.
Plasmo has another casting brand's tutorial.

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 Post subject: Re: Casting Plastic Pieces Help (recent)
PostPosted: Sat Nov 20, 2021 9:06 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 13, 2007 1:08 am
Location: Las Vegas
daremo wrote:
If you want good to perfect casts, you’ll need to invest a little into the proper equipment and materials. While it’s possible to get decent casts without one, a pressure pot and compressor are vital to getting the best results. You’ll need to use pressure for both making your molds and the casts.

I recommend using Smooth-on products. They have a large variety of resins and silicones. For making the molds, I’d suggest trying Mold Max 15T. It’s a translucent silicon so you can see the parts in the mold which helps when removing the original part after the mold cures. It also has enough flexibility to remove the original part or casts. It’s a 24 hr cure time but it’s durable and you can get up to 50 runs if you’re careful.

For hard resin casts, try smooth cast 327 (or 325, 326). You can either cast as is, in an almost clear, or add so strong tints for translucent or solid color pieces. It’s a 4 hr cure time and has enough working time to fill your molds and get it into the pressure pot. 325 and 326 have quicker cure times but also significantly less time to fill molds. Rushing is one thing you don’t want to have to deal with when molding or casting.

For flexible resin casts (webgear), try Task 14. It only comes in black but it’s strong and flexible for high durability. It’s a bit thicker than the 327 and you’ll need a gram scale for mixing. You also need to work fast but it’s the most reliable flexible resin I’ve used. If you need to have a flexible cast in a particular color, Specialty Resin sells Flexit 90 that can be used with tints but know that you have to work really fast because of the short pot life/working time.

For making envelope molds, I always used plastic containers. Most office supply and craft stores sell ones that work perfectly for any sized parts. Making mold boxes out of foam board or lego takes too much time and involve extra costs instead of a container that’s ready to go and can be used over and over. I used clay strips and toothpicks/gorilla glue to place the parts in the container.


How much pressure is necessary for casting?


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 Post subject: Re: Casting Plastic Pieces Help (recent)
PostPosted: Sat Nov 20, 2021 10:35 pm 

Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 9:59 pm
Location: Chicago, IL
I have a 5 gallon pressure pot that I fill to 60 psi.


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 Post subject: Re: Casting Plastic Pieces Help (recent)
PostPosted: Sun Nov 21, 2021 2:28 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2007 10:19 am
Location: Florida
daremo wrote:
If you want good to perfect casts, you’ll need to invest a little into the proper equipment and materials. While it’s possible to get decent casts without one, a pressure pot and compressor are vital to getting the best results. You’ll need to use pressure for both making your molds and the casts.

I recommend using Smooth-on products. They have a large variety of resins and silicones. For making the molds, I’d suggest trying Mold Max 15T. It’s a translucent silicon so you can see the parts in the mold which helps when removing the original part after the mold cures. It also has enough flexibility to remove the original part or casts. It’s a 24 hr cure time but it’s durable and you can get up to 50 runs if you’re careful.

For hard resin casts, try smooth cast 327 (or 325, 326). You can either cast as is, in an almost clear, or add so strong tints for translucent or solid color pieces. It’s a 4 hr cure time and has enough working time to fill your molds and get it into the pressure pot. 325 and 326 have quicker cure times but also significantly less time to fill molds. Rushing is one thing you don’t want to have to deal with when molding or casting.

For flexible resin casts (webgear), try Task 14. It only comes in black but it’s strong and flexible for high durability. It’s a bit thicker than the 327 and you’ll need a gram scale for mixing. You also need to work fast but it’s the most reliable flexible resin I’ve used. If you need to have a flexible cast in a particular color, Specialty Resin sells Flexit 90 that can be used with tints but know that you have to work really fast because of the short pot life/working time.

For making envelope molds, I always used plastic containers. Most office supply and craft stores sell ones that work perfectly for any sized parts. Making mold boxes out of foam board or lego takes too much time and involve extra costs instead of a container that’s ready to go and can be used over and over. I used clay strips and toothpicks/gorilla glue to place the parts in the container.


@daremo - thank you for the detailed post! I am not planning to purchase a pressure pot/compressor for this since I'm just trying to make playable replacement parts for 3-6 year olds. I would probably buy them if I were looking at doing heavy custom stuff. Would you recommend one of those solutions over another for making something that would be played with/used such as a He-Man figure's sword or Bravestarr's laser pistol?

Thanks again.

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 Post subject: Re: Casting Plastic Pieces Help (recent)
PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2022 1:14 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 13, 2007 1:08 am
Location: Las Vegas
I think the dirtiest cheapest ways to make copies is to make a press mold with some "blue stuff" or oyumaru. It's a thermal plastic you heat up and can mold with it, it can also be heated up and made into a new mold. Once you made a mold mix up some epoxy putty and press it into your mold, the trim the excess. "Green stuff" is probably the best putty for this because it has some flex and should not brittle fracture as easy


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 Post subject: Re: Casting Plastic Pieces Help (recent)
PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2022 11:54 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2007 10:19 am
Location: Florida
Thank you for all of the time you guys took to pass on the information.

My brother was good enough to 3D print two replacement laser guns for the Tex Hex and Bravestarr that my kids have. They are a sturdy plastic and - God bless him - he printed them in bright orange so they are more easily found when they lose them haha :).

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